Advice & Guidance
Rainwater Goods
The best time to inspect your rainwater goods is during or immediately after heavy rain, as this will let you identify any problem areas easily. Use a pair of binoculars to help you see what is happening at gutter level and a hand mirror to look behind downpipes.
Gutters and downpipes: Check that gutters and downpipes have not been damaged by frost. If there are gutters that slope the wrong way (i.e. away from the outlet) or gutters that allow water to discharge over the wall surface they will need to be altered to make sure that the water can run away freely. Signs of soil being washed away at ground level or splashes of soil on the base of the walls can be an indication that the water is not being caught by the gutter. Stains on brickwork or masonry that are visible when the weather is dry are also an indication that there might be a problem. If you can see a dripping section on a dry day, there may be a blockage, which needs to be removed.
The fixings for downpipes and gutters
should be checked as they can work loose.
Metal fittings may corrode and cause damage to adjacent masonry or
render. Any sign of movement or
corrosion should be noted and remedial action taken before further damage
occurs. Staining or algae around joints
are clues that the connection may be faulty.
Ideally, downpipes should be fixed clear of the wall to allow access to
the back of the downpipes for inspection and maintenance. Lead and cast iron downpipes can split or
crack at the back if the protective paint layer breaks down and corrosion
occurs. Splits and cracks will direct
water into the fabric of the wall allowing the masonry to become saturated, so
broken sections of downpipe should be repaired or replaced as soon as
possible. Keeping the paintwork in good
condition will minimise the likelihood of corrosion occurring.
As a rule of thumb, you should expect to have to repaint cast iron rainwater goods every five years and perhaps more frequently in coastal areas.
Do remember that some places of worship do not have gutters. This may be acceptable as long as water can drain away from the base of walls effectively.
Action point: Clear leaves and debris from gutters and downpipes regularly and at least twice a year, preferably in spring and autumn after blossom and leaf fall. More frequent attention may be needed if the building is surrounded by trees or perched upon by pigeons. When cleaning gutters start at the downpipe and look along the gutter. Even if the gutter is clear, drop a small pebble down the downpipe to check that it is not blocked. Gutters should be cleaned using soft brushes and wooden or plastic shovels or trowels as metal tools can cause damage. It is advisable to wear thick gloves to protect your hands. You should place any debris you collect into a bag or bucket, which should be securely attached to your ladder. Debris should be disposed of safely (remembering that leaves can be added to the compost heap).
Action point: You can fit bird/leaf guards to the tops of downpipes and soil pipes to help prevent blockages. However, these also need to be maintained if they are not to cause a problem themselves and should be checked regularly.
Gulleys: There are a number of different arrangements for making the connection
between downpipes and drains so it is important to find out what type of system
your building is equipped with. Talk to
your architect or surveyor to establish where the water goes when it leaves the
building. Does it discharge into a
soakaway, a surface water drain or a combined system? In many cases, there will be a gulley
underneath the bottom of the downpipe.
If the rainwater discharges into a combined system, it will be a ‘trapped'
gulley to prevent smells rising up from the sewers. This type of gulley is also recommended where
the rainwater discharges into a surface water system.
Trapped gulleys should have water in the bottom of them in the same way that there is water in the bottom of a toilet bowl. If there is no water this might indicate that there is a crack at the base of the gulley, allowing water to drain into the ground near to the foundations where it can cause damage. Dry gulleys should therefore be investigated and replaced if found to be broken. You should also check that the water from the downpipe is discharging into the gulley and does not spill over the ground. If the water is not caught by the gulley if may be necessary to alter the system to ensure that water is carried away as quickly as possible. Remember to inspect the grating or grille and check that it is in good condition and able to stop debris falling into the gulley.
Action
point: Gulleys should be cleaned out regularly and any silt and debris removed
to ensure that water drains away freely.
As with gutters, inspecting gulleys during or immediately after heavy
rainfall can help to highlight problems.
If a drain is blocked, a backlog of water may appear at the gulley or
the gulley may clear very slowly. If a
blockage is suspected the drains should be rodded to ensure that they are
working properly. A simple set of
drainage rods can be obtained inexpensively from a good hardware or DIY
store.
When cleaning gulleys, be sure to wear heavy rubber gloves and take care, as it is not unusual to find hypodermic needles in such places. Needles are a hazard as they may carry infection and should be treated with extreme caution. Many local authorities operate specialist services with a member of staff to deal with needle finds. Specialist waste companies will collect and dispose of needles and other hazardous objects routinely or by appointment.
Action point: Some newer types of gulley incorporate silt traps, which collect loose gravel, silt, leaves and debris. These should be checked and emptied at least quarterly and also after heavy leaf fall. This will substantially reduce the risk of the gulley blocking and also the need for rodding.
Ground
gutters: Some places of worship will have a perimeter
drainage channel or ground gutter running around the building. It is not ideal to have hard surfaces such as
brick, stone flags, tarmac or concrete laid against the edge of the building as
water tends to splash back onto the wall surface keeping it permanently
saturated and encouraging the growth of algae and moss. However, it may not be possible to alter the existing
arrangements in the short term. In this case,
it is important to check that the pointing between the bricks or flags is in
good condition so that water does not seep down into the foundations through
cracks and open joints. Remember that
the goal is to get water away from the building as quickly and efficiently as
possible. Inspecting the ground gutter
on a rainy day will help you to identify problem areas.
Surface water drains: Surface water (storm) drains need to be checked to ensure that water is satisfactorily carried away from the structure as they carry large quantities of water discharged from roofs and rainwater goods. If the water is not properly discharged, it will seep into the fabric of the walls and promote decay at low level.
This may affect
finishes such as plaster and paint and can affect the stability of
foundations. Particular attention should
be paid to the disposal of surface water where discharge positions are close to
the building.
Action point: Water butts are a good way of saving water to use in the churchyard or garden but make sure that there is a method of dealing with any overflow. Excess water should drain into the surface water system and not be allowed to dissipate into the ground where it can cause damage to foundations.
Foul and combined drains: Foul drains carry the waste (grey) water from sinks and toilets to the public sewer. If this waste water or effluent is mixed in with the surface water, it is called a combined system. A yearly inspection of all accessible drains, manholes, inspection chambers and outlets is advisable. If you suspect a blockage you may be able to clear it using drain rods, otherwise seek professional advice. It is now possible to use CCTV technology to inspect drains and some repairs can be carried out without disturbing the ground above. Inspection chambers and manholes should be cleaned and repaired as necessary.
Soakaways: Soakaways are a type of ‘infiltration device' - a way of dispersing
surface water in situations where it is impractical or impossible to make a
connection to the public sewer system. Many
older soakaways are little more than a hole in the ground filled with old
bricks, clinker or gravel, whilst modern soakaways are usually empty chambers
constructed from prefabricated units. Although
soakaways should not require much maintenance, their effectiveness can decrease
if there is a build up of silt.
Action point: It is a good idea to lift the cover and check for silting or contamination every few months or so. Any build-up of silt at the base of the soakaway chamber can be removed manually during dry conditions when the soakaway is empty. Occasionally, older soakaways will cease to function because they have become entirely blocked with silt and mud. In this case, the only remedy is to excavate and rebuild the soakaway.
Further information:
© SPAB 2008
